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Hiking from Makaibari to Kalinchowk

Route: Makaibari – Deurali – Kuri – Kalinchowk – Charikot
Difficulty: Moderately difficult
Hike Duration: 15 Hrs.
Total Distance covered: 40 km(approx.)
Maximum Altitude: 3780m (Kalinchowk)
Minimum Altitude: 1980m (Charikot)
Date: Feb 21 Saturday, 2009 – Feb 22 Sunday, 2009
Participants: SanjeetB, RajendraP, BikeshV(rookie), RoshanT, AmitA, BasuD, RameshwarY, VinayaS(rookie), SarojD, AnishV, SiddhiK, DineshA, DhilungK.
Report: VinayaS
Photos: DhilungK, SiddhiK, BasuD, RajendraP and VinayaS
Caption: DhilungK, VinayaS, SarojD, BasuD
Creative Support: Ganesh Thapa / Dijup Tuladhar / Dhilung Kirat

Kalinchowk 3790M, 27°45’29″N 86°2’2″E

Kalinchowk
Kalinchowk 360 Panorama (8,149 x 800)

Kalinchowk is a little known and rarely visited tourist destination. This is at the altitude of 3790m which is the highest around the vicinity. From this place one can get a wonderful panoramic view of Annapurna, Lamjung, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Shisha Panga, Langtang, Dorjee Lakpa, Jugal Himal, Amabamori, Gauri Shanker, and Namburi Himal. There is also a prominent temple of the Hindus called the Kalinchowk Bhagawati (Kali) temple.

Two natural springs originate from this area which are called Sundhara and Tama which are the main source of the very big two rivers the Sunkoshi and Tama Koshi rivers. From Kalinchowk one could get a good view of Kathmandu at night. The main flowers of Nepal Rhododendron (Laligurans) and the national bird Pheasant (Danfe) can also be seen in this area. While descending to Suspa you could get to see a very rare community in Nepal called “The Thami.” [wikimapia.org]


R2 The Hikers Team

The Hikers Team

It was saturday but not a regular saturday morning as we were up to an unprecedented hike. I say unprecedented because no D2 hikes have ever reached an altitude we were about to scale. Well, not at least those that have been categorized as “hikes”.

Camera, check. Food, water check. Hikers, check, we were ready to go. We set off at 7, stopped by several ATM machines to withdraw some cash, but none were working, Bhatbhateni, Durbamarg, Putalisadak, even Banepa. We reached Sharmila’s hotel at Zero Kilo at about 9 am and had our breakfast; puri, tarkari, and tea. Everyone liked those tea cups. After reaching Khadichaur, it was all uphill ride. We were very excited with the glimpse of a mountain and stopped by to take pictures of lali gurans. We passed through another area called Mude, “the place to buy potatoes”. A little further, we stopped to capture picture of mountains. From there, it was a downhill ride. At about 12, we reached makaibari, meaning Corn Field. This was the place we were supposed to start hiking. We had noodles and omlette. Anticipating some darkness before we reached our destination, we bought a torch light to add up to the two that we already had. The shopkeeper told us there were a number of hotels in Kuri, where we intended to shelter and since it was off-season, accommodation would not be a problem. He even called one of the hotels to tell them to expect visitors but hit a wrong number. Well, we didn’t really care. At 1:15, we were ready to walk !!


R3 Kalinchowk

Kalinchowk

It was a steep climb to begin with and I was sure there was more to follow. About 40 minutes after the start, we reached a place called Deurali where a few local damsels teased us through. A little later, we stopped to eat. Digestive biscuits, real juice, tang, enough to fuel us. Another half hour climb got us to a place with very cold running water. We cleaned up, filled water bottles and moved on. From there, it was steep climb and more of it. Every time we reached some place that seemed like the top of a hill, we would ramble a minute or two only to see a tougher climb awaiting. Another known stop was a place called “Gaihri” with merely two houses, a tot and few chickens. Gairhi was the last known stop before we reached “Kuri”. We were divided into several groups as we walked by and it was me, Saroj and Amit taking the lead. It was 6 and beginning to get dark when we decided to hit the brakes and wait for others to arrive.

It was very cold, we had little water and nothing to eat. Worse, we had to wait in the dark. We collected some wood, dry leaves and made fire to keep us warm. We waited, on and on but could see no signs of our friends; shouldn’t have taken this long! After about half an hour, we heard someone yell our names, they were telling us not to walk ahead. A lot later, all the hikers showed up in a place. Later it turned out that Siddhi was not feeling much comfortable. He was having trouble walking and feeling weak and a little dizzy. We sat by the fire for some more time and feeling a little energized, started to walk at 7. It was cold and totally dark; we were walking with the torch lights on. There was a positive side to it though; we saw more stars in the sky than we had ever seen. There were billions of stars, seemed like they had been squeezed in there.


R4 West landscape from Kalinchowk

West landscape from Kalinchowk

The situation with Siddhi was getting worse and we stopped at one more place before we decided to pull over. We were unfamiliar with the place, we never knew where Kuri was located, didn’t know how long we would have to walk before we reached Kuri and it was dark and cold. It would definitely not be wise to move ahead with the situation in hand. So we decided that half of us would go ahead in search of Kuri and get back on failure to find anything useful after an hour’s exploration. Six men marched forward for the mission, Saroj, Amit, Dhilung, Rajendra, Rameshwor and Dinesh. And well, how would they let us know if they did find Kuri, if ever? Some of them would walk back and then take the seven of us there. Ya sure, dream on. With all of us so hungry, tired, say wretched, no one would have done it for money! We checked if we could use our phones but NTC network was out of reach. Fortunately, Dhilung and Rameshwor had Mero Mobile SIM cards and the two phones worked. A phone was given to each of the groups and the “search-team” set off in search of the “phantom” Kuri in the wilderness, with a promise to call back upon success. We stayed behind, collected wood and made fire. It was 8:30 in the night as they left.

I had totally lost hope of getting any food to eat and a place to stay as we were talking about preparing ourselves for a stay in the jungle through the night. There was fire to keep us warm and I was wishing for some potatoes to roast and eat. Every little sound we heard and every movement we felt around ran a chill down our spine. Sanjeet hurled a stone in the dark when we felt something moving. Then, out of the blue, the phone I had in my pocket started to beep and buzz. It was Dhilung, telling us they had located Kuri, found a place to stay and cooked food to eat. He gave us directions, ten minutes uphill, get to an iron gate, another fifteen minutes downhill and there you are, Kuri. We were so glad that things were going to be all right and at the same time thankful Mero Mobile Network, we were planning on getting an extra Mero Mobile SIM card. It was 9, we were energized and ready to walk again. Siddhi seemed to have conjured up magical strength as we climbed up.


R5 View from Kalinchowk Entrance

View from Kalinchowk Entrance

We reached the gate and went downhill. Then it seemed that we had reached a somewhat plain area. We couldn’t tell exactly with the lights we had but it seemed like an open space. This should have been it, Kuri, there should have been houses, hotels and no way the place should have been pitch-dark. Did we take a wrong turn? Or was the whole Kuri thing a hoax? We got desperate, freaked, tried to call Dhilung only to realize that now Mero Mobile signals too were out of reach. Then suddenly we saw a ray of hope. Actually, we saw two full poles. It seemed they were electric poles and upon closer inspection, we saw a transformer as well. We were hopeful of civilization nearby, but there had to be some light if people were living in there. Sanjeet felt he saw intermittent light in that area and we had only walked ten meters that we saw a house. We screamed out names and the “search” guys came out. Finally, something to cherish.

We had thought all the people in Kuri were asleep, hence the lights turned off. Turns out, just one house was inhabited, the one we got sheltered to. All the Kuri people were away during the off-season. Lucky us, we had a place to stay! A lady brought us Tongba “Kodo beer”, cooked us dinner along with local chicken. We ate as we discussed the next day’s plans. They didn’t have the coziest of beds but I would have traded it for anything for a night’s sleep. Too tired to take it anymore, we just crashed in into our beds.


R6 Nature wide open

Nature wide open

Such adventure we had on Day 1, it was going to be a tough act to follow. We woke up early on Day 2 and set off to climb the scary looking hill to get to Kalinchowk Bhagwati. After about an hour’s climb, we reached the top, 3790 meters! We could see the mountains right before our eyes, bottom-up, nothing between us. And Kalinchowk Bhagwati was there too. The wind was cold and blowing real hard. At 9, we began our descent. We ate, stayed out in the sun, took pictures with the lady and left Kuri at 11. Nothing eventful happened on our way down, besides realizing that we had walked through very steep path for very long the previous day. At 1:15, we reached the same place with cold running water, washed, drank, filled bottles. A young girl came to us and began enquiring about a guy who had taken her picture the previous day. Turned out, it was Dhilung. He took more pictures of her. She said she wanted to keep her pictures. Dhilung told her she couldn’t as she would have to keep the camera itself. She retorted that she was even ready to keep Dhilung himself. We made sure that didn’t happen. At 3, we got back to Deurali and walked towards Charikot where D2 van was awaiting us. We decided to pay a visit to the very much revered “Dolakha Bhimsen” temple. It was 6 when we left Dolakha for Kathmandu.


R7 Dolakha Bhimshen

Dolakha Bhimshen

The hiking was a rigorous one. We had to deal with some very difficult climbing, reached great altitude and even had an account of getting lost. At some point, some of us might have wished we had never come. But at the end of the day, we realized that we ended up with better experiences to share, better stories to tell. I’m glad I made this trip.

New day new hopes
00 New day new hopes
Motorcycle Diaries
01 Motorcycle Diaries
Where is our 5th Photographer
02 Where is our 5th Photographer
Ascending March
03 Ascending March
Dharma Dwaar
04 Dharma Dwaar
Looking through a natural window
05 Looking through a natural window
Struggle for existence
06 Struggle for existence
The Crime scene
07 The Crime scene
Happiness is to hold flowers in both hands
08 Happiness is to hold flowers in both hands
SarojD with classic SLR
09 SarojD with classic SLR
In Bloom
10 In Bloom
Searching Makai @ Makaibaari
11 Searching Makai @ Makaibaari
Shy and brave
12 Shy and brave
A burden too big
13 A burden too big
High canyon
14 High canyon
Jholama k cha k cha
15 Jholama k cha k cha
Deforestration when are we going to STOP
16 Deforestration when are we going to STOP
Curious Deuralis
17 Curious Deuralis
Capturing the shadow
18 Capturing the shadow
Sky is the limit
19 Sky is the limit
Into the wild
20 Into the wild
At Deurali
21 At Deurali
Hanging around glorious Gaurishankar
22 Hanging around glorious Gaurishankar
Day ends but hike goes on
23 Day ends but hike goes on
Gaurishankar at dusk
24 Gaurishankar at dusk
Million dollar smile
25 Million dollar smile
Natanu ta tanu lagne
26 Natanu ta tanu lagne
SiddhiK and the rest
27 SiddhiK and the rest
Veggies first
28 Veggies first
Was alive half an hour ago
29 Was alive half an hour ago
Shiny happy people
30 Shiny happy people
Traveling stars
31 Traveling stars
Warmth in the wilderness of Kalinchowk
32 Warmth in the wilderness of Kalinchowk
Coming back to life
33 Coming back to life
Last step towards Kalinchowk
34 Last step towards Kalinchowk
Hanging by the cliff
35 Hanging by the cliff
First steps to Kalinchowk
36 First steps to Kalinchowk
Daring path
37 Daring path
Accross Kuri
38 Accross Kuri
Flowing mountains
39 Flowing mountains
Poles apart
40 Poles apart
Where the streets have no name
41 Where the streets have no name
Which is brighter, my  teeth or mountains
42 Which is brighter, my teeth or mountains
Finally ... at Kalinchowk
43 Finally … at Kalinchowk
I believe in free fly
44 I believe in free fly
Learning To Fly
45 Learning To Fly
After this I guess I can conquer Everest
46 After this I guess I can conquer Everest
The Offerings
47 The Offerings
The other side of the moon
48 The other side of the moon
Kalinchowk Entrance
49 Kalinchowk Entrance
Sounds of freedom
50 Sounds of freedom
High hopes
51 High hopes
A Great day for freedom
52 A Great day for freedom
Fresh flare
53 Fresh flare
Panorama from the altitude of 3790+2 meters
54 Panorama from the altitude of 3790+2 meters
Standing tall
55 Standing tall
Blessed
56 Blessed
Above the Himalayas
57 Above the Himalayas
I'm looking through you
58 I’m looking through you
No snow!!! Now you know the reason for loadshedding
59 No snow!!! Now you know the reason for loadshedding
Precarious
60 Precarious
Coming down is the hardest part
61 Coming down is the hardest part
Goodbye my lover
62 Goodbye my lover
High n' Dry
63 High n’ Dry
Framed
64 Framed
Knocking on heaven's door
65 Knocking on heaven’s door
Leaving Kalinchowk
66 Leaving Kalinchowk
Need some shade
67 Need some shade
Bijaya Bhai and Dolma Bajai, the saviors
68 Bijaya Bhai and Dolma Bajai, the saviors
Memories
69 Memories
Kuri (3140 m) under the sky
70 Kuri (3140 m) under the sky
The reference point
71 The reference point
Gauri and Shankar
72 Gauri and Shankar
Gairi
73 Gairi
Rookie of the month
74 Rookie of the month
Late comers
75 Late comers
Lining up for the shot
76 Lining up for the shot
Hardship and fun
77 Hardship and fun
Supported by Gaurishankar
78 Supported by Gaurishankar
Follow the poles
79 Follow the poles
On the turn
80 On the turn
Global warming Blooming Laligurans in February
81 Global warming Blooming Laligurans in February
Century old
82 Century old
Shall we fly
83 Shall we fly
Valley of eternity
84 Valley of eternity
Dolakha Unlimited
85 Dolakha Unlimited
Conflict of interests
86 Conflict of interests
Leading the pack
87 Leading the pack
Look, I got an 'A'
88 Look, I got an ‘A’
Preparing for Fagu
89 Preparing for Fagu
Can we have some more
90 Can we have some more
The best part of the hiking
91 The best part of the hiking
Sunita Lama with her Monalisa-smile
92 Sunita Lama with her Monalisa-smile
Why dont you understand man, they are journalists
93 Why dont you understand man, they are journalists
Begging for strength
94 Begging for strength
Juxtaposition of roofs
95 Juxtaposition of roofs
To my dear one
96 To my dear one
Holy Smoke
97 Holy Smoke
Bajdai bajdaina
98 Bajdai bajdaina
The return
99 The return

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  80. yes it is a beautiful place.I have been there.When i reached there,i felt ,i was in a heaven.It was my unforgettable journey.

  81. Hey sandesh … its nice that you too made thrilling experience with Kalinchowk hiking. And guess what, our hiking was not that planned too … everybody was going for the first time and nobody knew where exactly to start from. Even better you continue through barabise (i guess you passed thru Karthali). We thought about that too but it was the time limitation that we had to return back the same trail to Charikot. But we took different turn from Deurali to Charikot … the environment was too good to be true. And do you know that you can also hike Kalinchowk to Gumba to Sigati which is also one of the must-visit place. From Gumba you can reach the border of tibet pass (Lamabagar) within few hours.

    One thing you could have missed is the chilling wind during evening and early next morning. It was so cold that we could no longer drink hot water except once that the food was too hot to eat 😉

    Anyway Keep rolling your feet. 🙂

  82. hi guys. i recently had a hike to this place with my friends. it was kind of unplanned hike so we dint have a good camera. we ran out of battery and had to depend on only one camera. i’m happy to see so many pictures here. as we had not planned of this hike, we had a lot hardship – no food, no money, no one of us had any idea how long the hike would be, will me make it to the top in time…. but at the same time, we had great fun. i bet, we had much more fun than those who go pre-planned ; ) it sure was a great adventure. a must-see place. a LARGER-THAN-LIFE experience. on top of that, climbing down a different route through the thick forests of sindhupalchowk to barabise, just added to the adventure. will never forget this experience.

  83. Writing a comment after a long time!! Was one of the hikers…Having to hike in 3800 meters of height was thrilling!! Thanks to Basu and the team for this superb one!! Of course, thanks Siddhi dai for forcing me to participate!!

  84. 😈
    Thanks AntiD2Rebel 4 remindin me b’out my blindness. I am real blinded not 2 see ur (so called) social service.
    😎

  85. yea, none of us had been to Kalinchowk previously and I feel we definitely did not prepare ourselves anticipating he worst. I think we could have made it to Kuri before the day ended but things happened otherwise. No regrets though, the experience was awesome as it was laid out !!

  86. awsome place dai…. i bet u had loads of fun….” the hikers team” is really looking like locals…. 😛
    grt pics… needless to say…..#18…. such long legssss..:P..wen did u have ur knees done???lol
    i personally loved the pic ” the same: at the day time”””its so peacefull ..n its pic is pulling me … i want to be in that particular place so badly ….
    i havnt heard the names of any of the places mentioned at the top…. but by looking at the pic.. i so want to visit …. sad u wont be there to guide me through these places wen i return to nepal….
    love ya dai… u r the best

  87. Yo d2rebel le hiking janda exercise book distribute garna payena ki kya ho…….. ani pakkai pani yesko hiking ko photo webmaster le censore garyo ………

  88. Where’s the picture of distributing exercise books to the school children?? Missed ?? Forgotten ?? Is it lost or was censored by the webmaster. “Verisk” ले रोक्का गरिदियो कि के हो ? b’coz there’s not profit for corporates neither the employees to take the burden of carrying of the notebooks.

  89. Nice pictures and creative presentation. Though hiking pictures in previous blogs seems repeated, this one is really different. Really loved “64. Framed”. Keep it up guys.. Nepal is really gre8…

  90. 😀 coolest hike ever… wow… best hike story pani.. dhilung dai lai kt le rakchhu bhaneko ramailo thiyo.. hahah.. 😆 😆

  91. Big round of applause from my side too. Proud to have much respected Shutterbug in our EU community.

    Thank you so much for all these ‘priceless inspirations’ we get from you.

    Regarding your EU page load query – the map should not cause such problems. Poor connection will take longer time but should load the page completely. It is likely that some spywares has infected your IE. Btw, why don’t you opt for alternate browsers like Firefox, Opera or Chrome.

  92. And Everest Uncensored Best Commentator Award goes……. Mr. Shutterbug. Glad that EU have good commentator like you not just for .. good tips on photography but also making these hiking post more lively. Thank you Shutterbug for your good words and showing your concern. Hope responsible one will take your suggestion and address your .. question rightfully.

    Big round of applauses to your effort.

  93. Indeed breath-taking pictures. CONGRATULATION! Dhilung, Siddhi, Basu, Rajendra and Vinaya for being able to photograph at such a location. Nature are so incredible prolific in its creation and they are so incredible fascinating that one could never stop being in awe of them.

    And it is a privilege to you all because many won’t find them as lucky as you Hikers to have this opportunity to visit such places and bring back many precious memories. Thanks to all hiker/photographers who took these marvelous pictures of Kalinchowk thus we have this grand opportunity to view nature in all its splendor.

    Picture no: ‘31 Traveling stars’ is very exciting one and it is even new to me. I myself have never capture such picture in my 8 years of photography voyage. I know by heart that pictures of this kind is rare and difficult to come by. Hats off to Dhilung.

    ‘360 degree shot of Kalinchowk’ certainly takes many viewers breath away. It’s a amazing final picture with much skilled post-production. Very creative indeed.

    Okay now here’s
    Shutterbug Rating
    Creative Shot : ‘31 Traveling stars ‘, ‘50 Sounds of freedom’ & ‘64 Framed’
    Perfect Shot : ‘View from Kalinchowk Entrance’
    Journalistic Shot : ‘13 A burden too big’ &’ 16 Deforestration when are we going to STOP’
    Nature’s Best Shot : ‘10 In Bloom’
    Interesting Shot : ‘31 Traveling stars’
    Well Composed Shot : ‘04 Dharma Dwaar’, ‘57 Above the Himalayas’ & ‘86 Conflict of interests’
    Best Landscape : ‘View from Kalinchowk Entrance’
    Prize Winning Shot : ‘View from Kalinchowk Entrance’

    I have one question regarding management of these D2H’s hiking trip. Why many ‘hike reports’ makes us feel that most hikes are not well planned before? We get to read.. No enough torch-lights, less idea of accommodation, little water and nothing to eat, had to wait in the dark, hiker feeling weak and dizzy, totally lost hope of getting any food to eat and a place to stay, preparing for a stay in the jungle throughout the night… and so on. Is this just some overstated words to thrill readers or is it indeed not well plan hike trips?

    A well plan in advance of hike trip is half work done which I guess will give all an assurance of good travel, not underestimating individual safety. So why not to acquire enough information about those new destinations before going to hike. This little effort will insure any hike a great time and make worthy experience.

    And one more question: I am not good at IT Stuffs and I may be wrong to say that putting ‘Google Earth map Locater’ makes page difficult in getting download the page then other pages of EU normally does. I get this message windows many time while trying to view the page. It says:
    Internet Explorer cannot open the internet site http://www.everestuncensored.org/4675/2009/02/27/in-to-the-thin-air-kalinchok/.
    Operation aborted

    Or is this error I get because my internet connection is poor?

  94. yeah. It was rare moment watching crystal clear blue sky with millions of stars (and sure the cloud-looking galactic dust …) … searching for dry woods in the darkness for keeping ourselves warm and still fearing of encountering some wild beast around. If the news that other search-team had been bad, we had no option but to spend the night in the middle of the jungle. Also, we’ll never forget the warm hospitality from Boju. Luckily, she and her hotel was the only running hotel this season.

  95. Thrilling Memories

    “…..A phone was given to each of the groups and the “search-team” set off in search of the “phantom” Kuri in the wilderness, with a promise to call back upon success. We stayed behind, collected wood and made fire. It was 8:30 in the night as they left……”

    And then we seven were waiting there, in the dark n cold jungle, felt something moving. Sanjeet quickly throw stones and Basu pointed his torch in same direction without losing a moment and with fear. We started collecting enough woods for stock to spend a night there with a less hope that we will march forward. I was physically feeling weak and dizzy but had felt strength inside coz of team spirit we had. I feel comfortable. I was not afraid of darkness and cold. I wanted our search team to come back soon.

    “…. out of the blue, the phone I had in my pocket started to beep and buzz. It was Dhilung, telling us they had located Kuri …..”

    It was fantastic hike from D2, I had ever experienced.

  96. Yes Pic 31 is right. This is a long exposure shot of 1 hr 15 mins (4518 secs to be precise) taken at Kuri (3128m). The ‘maane’ was light painted.

    We were so excited to see so many bright stars and the majestic ‘The Milky Way’ which used to be hidden behind the urban polluted air. Wondered how many more stars are still hidden behind. Reminded me of the intriguing project ‘The Project Deep Field” at Hubble. They do it for weeks, i did it just for an hour… thank god Shiddi dai woke me up in the mid-night to release the shutter 🙂 otherwise I would have ended up with a white piece of crap in the morning.

    The star in the center of the concentric trails is the Pole star which we know that doesn’t move around. The Big Dipper (well know सप्तऋषि )in the right helped to make strong trails. Detail info can be seen inside the EXIF of the picture.

    Pic quality is bad, thanks for liking it anyways 🙂

    Same place:

    -under short exposure (do you see the ‘Big Dipper"? )

    -in the day time

  97. seen more ………………..

    experienced more …………….

    and gone through more ………….

    which just cannot be defined in these few words and 100 snaps

    A life time experience , which will never be forgotton………………..

  98. The View – Majestic and Nicely captured, Thumbs up to all those behind the Lens!!

    The Hiking Track – Seems like Nature’s delight, Inviting!!

    The Hiking Report – Limpid style of story telling, Detailed and goes along with the clicks. Good Job!!

    The Hiking Team – Adventurous & Committed (the tale in the dark, and reaching Kuri), the Lucky 13’s!!

    In a Nut-Shell – Marvellous! Astonishing!! Superb!!!

    (Thinking of proposing the AXN creative head’s “THE AMAZING RACE – ASIA – NEPAL”)

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