Hiking from Changu Narayan to Bhaktapur Durbar
Theme: Revisiting the History – Part III ‘Historic City of Bhaktapur’
Hiking Route: Changu Narayan – Bhaktapur Durbar
Day: July 20, 2008, Sunday
Hike Coordinator: Rajiv Shrestha
Participants: Vishnu Kshettri, Hitesh Karki, Sanjeet Baidya, Manish Shakya, Sarjan Gautam, Santosh Pradhan, Babins Shrestha, Sunny Shakya, Prajwal Shrestha, Shristi Rawal, Cindy(Shristi’s friend), Dinesh Bajracharya, Sumit K. Singh, Saroj Dahal, Rajiv Shrestha
Caption: PrajwalS/RajivS
Camera: ManishS, SarojD, HiteshK, SanjeetB, SantoshP, ShristiR and SumitS
Report: DineshB/SumitS/SarojD
Creative Support: Dijup/Pallavi
We set out in our time machine-the office vehicle towards the one of the ancient temples of the valley, ChanguNarayan. A pleasant morning with a drizzle it seemed a perfect day for the hike.All of us hoped that the drizzle would not turn into a downpour. It was around 8.30 when the van engine stopped rumbling. We started the way up to ChanguNarayan temple. It was about a 10 minutes’ walk from where we had stopped.
Changu Narayan is one of the most ancient pilgrimage site of Kathmandu Valley. It depicts preservation of the history, art and culture of different periods. The monument is significant from artistic, religious, cultural, historical and archaeological viewpoint. The Lord Vishnu residing in the place is worshipped by the Hindus as Narayan and Buddhists as Hari Vahan Lokeshwor. ChanguNarayan covers sixteen hundred years of Nepalese historyas it temple was built around 3rd Century by King Mandev. The temple is decorated with some of the finest wooden and metallic works. The intricacies of the wooden carvings is amazing- Devas staring you from the wall, fire gusting dragons of the bell, elephants and Garudas at each door.
Art work of the temple was so good we could not help but take out all of our cameras and capture the shot. There were a lot of interesting things to note. One was the “Half Grain of Rice” embedded in the wall of the temple. Legend has it that this grain was enough to make meal for a whole family. Another was a sculpture that is also present in the Nepali currency notes. There was a museum on the way to the temple maintained by a family. The house itself (as told to us by the owner) was more than 180 years old. It had a lot of information about Changu to offer and an excellent collection of ancient, historical, artistic, religious, archaeological, cultural objects and other artifacts dating back to the Lichhavi period.
The actual hike began at about 10 am. It was somehow an unusual hike. Normally, a hike starts from bottom to top and down again and from the urban area to the rural area. But our hike was just the opposite. We started from the top from the rural area towards the urban Bhaktapur area. We descended the hill with a breathtaking view of the Manohara basin. All through the hike there were temporary showers. Our raincoats and umbrella were folded and unfolded countless number of times!!
On our way from Changu Narayan to Bhaktapur Durbar Square we visited the Paropakar Orphanage. Then we moved to ‘Shree Changu Narayan Madhyamik Vidhyalaya’ where children of the orphanage were studying where the hiking team distributed notebooks and pencils to the children.It was really good to see those children smiling. We also visited Siddha Pokhari, which is the largest pond in Bhaktapur. The major feature of this pond is that one finds fishes of different varieties and that too in abundant number.The pond was so big that we could not capture it complete in a single frame.
Finally we reached Bhaktapur which is renowned for art, culture, colorful festivals, traditional dances and the typical Newari lifestyle. Painting, carving, masonry, bronze-casting, jewellery, pottery, etc. are other traditional enterprises still exist at Bhaktapur.Three main squares of the city namely the Pachpanna Jhyaale Durbar Square, the Nyatapola temple square and the Dattatraya Durbar square are remarkably attractive in their artistic exposition of elegant temples, dignified palace, graceful monasteries and Bihars standing around these open public places and connected to one another with quaint streets. Bhaktapur Durbar Square, that houses 55-window Palace was constructed by King Bhupatindra Malla and it is now a National Art Gallery. The Golden Gate, the Big Bell, the stone temple, statue of Bhupatindra Malla paying homage to the God and the palace itself with 55 windows are specially noticeable in the vicinity of Durbar Square.
Few minutes’ walk towards south lay the Taumadhi tole where the PaanchTalle Temple stands so tall that it is visible from any open place in Bhaktapur. The enigma of the temple and the surrounding cannot be explained. Nearby is another temple housing Lord Bhairab, which is huge in itself; its hugeness overshadowed by the gigantic PaanchTalle. The streets, Pottery Square, Dattatraya square and the ancient houses; all reflect the history of ancient art, culture and lifestyle.It was amazing how everything had been preserved so well till this day.
Before wrapping the trip, we took time to enjoy the taste of the representative recipe of Bhaktapur “Ju-Ju dhau – the King of Curds”. A perfect way to end the day!! And none of us could “have just one”.
All in all, the trip helped us re-live the history of art and culture of ancient medieval period.
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(2 votes, average: 4.00 out of 5)

July 24th, 2008 at 3:06 am
Is this a hike??plz dnt call this as hike..this is just a photography session not hiking…
July 24th, 2008 at 3:14 am
K ho Sanjeet dai, machha le khane khana Test garera QC passed garepachi matra machha lai khaune ki pet bhare pachi matra….
July 24th, 2008 at 3:17 am
July 24th, 2008 at 3:18 am
Pictures are superb. Reminded me of old days.. Bhaktaput rejuvenates one’s sole. Feels like you are among the ancient Raja Maharajas.. and watching city flourish in art and culture. Really great place to visit and live in the past. Well choice for a change.
July 24th, 2008 at 3:24 am
k bhaneko??? bujhiyena.
July 24th, 2008 at 3:26 am
agree with one of the hiker..
theme based hiking is going down with such hikings …
and know what.. another one is to patan durbar square..
what have happened to d2′s hiking..?
July 24th, 2008 at 3:27 am
Hey one of the hiker.. if you don’t think this is a hike then don’t call yourself one of the hikers ok……
July 24th, 2008 at 4:15 am
“Bhaktaput rejuvenates one’s sole”. yea…the hikers must have really worn their sole out…
July 24th, 2008 at 4:31 am
hay one of the real hiker i am not a part of this hike…i have hiked many other interesting and tough hikes..not like this one …photo session in the name of hiking
July 24th, 2008 at 4:34 am
khet ko aali ma hindai ma hiking hudaina
July 24th, 2008 at 5:16 am
herad that people are going to patan durbar next time. if this goes on day will come when d2 guys and girls will walk from d2 office to basantapur durbar square and say that it was a hike.
shame on u pepole to select such a route.
i agree with everyone who thinks that this is not a hike
jaya naya nepal
July 24th, 2008 at 5:50 am
This time Bhaktapur Darbar, Next time Patan Darbar..hmmmm.. pls go next next time Basntapur Darbar. Pls don’t forget to visit to Shital Niwas( Rastapati Bhawan) & Bahadur Bhawan( UpaRastapati Bhawan). hahahah You guys are doing gr8 job. hates up to u!!!!!.
Rudra Dai- you have to comment on this. Is this your hiking strategy or methodology?. I often heard that you kick offed this for Employee;s helath. If I am not wrong, pls go your e-mail sent items and read again what you sent people regarding Nischal Heallth.
I also remember that your comment on Santosh Dai’s leading hiking- Nagdhunga to Naubise. If that was no hiking. pls say is this hiking?????
July 24th, 2008 at 6:30 am
I must say This was a “Cultural Hike”.
July 24th, 2008 at 7:15 am
I think we must not forget the Theme of the Hiking .I would like to remind the theme to them who made comments against this Hiking. It is ‘HISTORY REVISITED’. You cant go to the top of the Hill around Kathmandu Valley to rediscover the History. You need to go to place where it is actually located. i have been to almost all Hiking of this theme and it was simply superb. I had never discovered History in my past as i have now in these lovely hiking. One should not forget that it was not just visiting Bhaktapur Durbar Square but a long walk from changunarayan temple to bhaktapur(approx 6 KM) These Hiking are really great and very informative. Thanks to D2 for organizing such a wonderful hike with such a great theme.
July 24th, 2008 at 7:50 am
I agree with ‘respect your history’. I think that all the finger pointers here towards the “Revisiting history” does not know all the truth. Its not just drive straight to the durbar square and roam for 1 or 2 hour and return.
And Mr. Pink Floyd ko fan,
yes u heard it right next time its Patan Durbar Square!!! But again, u didn’t quite read it rite??? It in fact starts from BajraBarahi.. (U know where that is right??) Its not next galli to Mangal bazaar.
When there is a theme like “Revisiting history” attached to hiking event, then you have to visit places where there is historical significance. This is essential to stick with the theme.
And to put in the essence of hike; there is some walk associated with it. in Bhaktapur hike, it was from changunarayan to bhaktapur, this time it is going to be from Bajrabarahi to Lalitpur.
I think the theme and the hikes conducted so far are conducted in a perfect blend of HIKING and REVISITING HISTORY.
July 24th, 2008 at 8:30 am
to explore History is such a crucial job that it is not sure to reach at the real story, the real truth behind it. By exploring at the historical places created by the human beings like we do will always create confusion. it has been created by we people, with a fear that if we keep the reality there we might get into trouble. ..
like the unsolved history that existed from our past till now … form the Bhandarkhal parbha to Royal Massacre. We all know the real culprit behind the Royal Massacre….. but our next generation will always be reading the fake .. untruth..
to take the pleasure of the historical arts, architecture, arms and weapons … we should go to those places but to find out the real history behind it better not to go there they are all rubbish, all we can get is just rubbish theories and mystery about the past …… The real history still lies unsolved
July 24th, 2008 at 9:34 am
When people become lazy they find all different ways and loop holes to bend the rules and use to their immidiate pleasure giving up long term gains. That’s what it is happening here. They call it hiking (very interesting!)and ride on the air-conditioned van, lunch in luxurious restaurant and walk not even three plain miles – forgot about the mountain trek.
Bhagvan Krishna said in Geeta “those who try to fool others, actually fool themselves.” Go sweat young people – do nto try to be city boys and girls.
July 24th, 2008 at 10:57 pm
We should all respect our History but u ppl can organize something different to revisit the history.
Let hiking remain hiking.Hiking to jungle,top of the hill makes the real hiking.The theme is nice but dont call this as hiking…
And i agree with Geeta.Visiting the city area with lunch in luxurious restaurant looses the charm of hiking. People are going to have lunch in luxurious restaurant not to hike.
July 25th, 2008 at 3:36 am
haha.. new one.. i agree with u..
ppl here go for hiking not for the real hiking but for the expensive meal in one of the luxurious restaurants…
fren here were thinking about meeting the hikers in mangal bazaar and to have lunch with them
well the route has changed now..
to the future coordinators of hikings -> make the hiking tough so that every one is challenged such that they dare to send their names for hiking.. i heard that for the hiking to patan durbar square ppl didn’t send their names coz it was too easy.. make ppl not send their names for the reason it’s too hard..
then the real hikers will be born(discovered)
October 30th, 2008 at 5:56 pm
Awsome and yes simply awsome. Hope Nepal can cash this rich culture some day. This culturally rich country should flourish as people around the world get tired of industrial garbage. Thank you for posting this.
November 1st, 2008 at 12:35 am
Delightful pictures there. I dont care who built what and when but these picture reminds me that there were people in the valley who loved Gods dearly…
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